TIPS TO WORK WITH COMERCIAL PATTERNS
Hello friends, I have been working on a top that I would like to wear in my third year of mother's day, but I was a little worried if I was going to finished on time because I have a little guy and definitely all my attention is form him. I feel so happy when he takes his evening nap and I can work on a project and write about it in my blog.
the pattern I have been working is the McCall 7162, it is easy to do but the fabric I chose was not the easiest. (challis)
would you believe me if I tell you how much I thought about making this top?! usually I like to work with the vogue patterns because I don't have to make so many changes, but this time I took it as a challenge and I decided to write a post to help others out there with my tips.
+ the first thing you need to do to work with a commercial pattern and make sure that you are not going to be working in something that would end up needing to many changes is: take your measurements for a top you usually need the measurement of your bust and waist. so you can find out in the envelope of your pattern, which is your size.
+ the fact that you already know your measurements and realize that you are size 14 for example, it doesn't mean that the top is going to be a close fit as it looks in the picture; So for a close fit you need to take your breast and waist measurements and divide it by 4.
why 4? because the patterns has 2 fronts and 2 backs even if it says on fold.
+ example: I am a size 14, my breast is 36" and my waist is 28" so if I divide my breast measurement by 4 is 9'. so I expect my pattern to have 9'to 9 1/4" in the bust line, so I wont look like I have the shirt of somebody else. if my pattern happens to have more than 9 1/4" in each side of the pattern, it would be more than 1"ease in the total bust line, so it will look like a blouse with a lot of gap in it.
In the following picture, I show you my bust line in the horizontal red line. I was finding out how much ease my size 14 had. After measuring, I realize that the measurements with ease and seam allowance for me was the size 12.
the horizontal red line goes from center front to the under arm, I leave the seam allowance of 5/8"for the pattern and is there where I came to the conclusion of needing to work in the size 12.
following these tips that I am giving you, are going to save you plenty of time sewing that could end up being reaped and working in the smaller size. so I really suggest to:
take your measurements.
find out which is your size in the pattern.
divide your measurement by 4
measure the pattern in your size to know how much ease has and don't include the seam allowance.
by last, just decide what size will be the best for you and your project.
These tips are ideal for those who are looking for a close fit top, but if what you desire if a bigger ease in your top, you equally need to measure, divide by 4 and add the ease needed.
I really hope that my tips are helping some of you out there, I enjoy writing about something new for you guys. I wish to the moms a very happy mother's day and God Bless you!
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